The Whole Hog about NC BBQ

Becoming a pitmaster takes dedication, an unwavering work ethic and the ability to handle a little heat in the kitchen. It’s common for these masters of barbecue to be up in the wee hours of the morning starting fires, burning coals and preparing meats. What’s uncommon, though, is having three generations of pitmasters in the same family. 

That’s what makes North Carolina’s Jones family, owners and operators of Skylight Inn BBQ and Sam Jones BBQ, special. 

 Sam Jones is a third generation pitmaster. In Jones family lore, classic North Carolina barbecue can be traced back to Sam’s great-great-great-grandfather, who sold barbecue out of a wagon in the 1830s. Since then, the family has been cooking whole-hog barbecue, which is now known as Eastern style in North Carolina and can take anywhere from 12 to 24 hours to prepare.  

Sam Jones’ grandfather, Pete Jones, opened the Skylight Inn in 1947, when he was just 17 years old. When Pete became sick, his son Bruce took over before eventually passing the mantle to Sam, who currently runs the business. Through it all, the Jones family has held to the belief that true barbecue is cooked with exclusively wood fire. 

“Barbecue is not a complex food… it boils down to meat, fire, man,” said Sam in an interview with Eater Magazine. “Buy the best product you can buy, try not to screw it up, and cook it as purely as possible.”

This process is easier said than done. But the Jones family’s commitment to quality barbecue has gained them some national recognition. In 2003, the Skylight Inn was awarded the James Beard “American Classics” award.

Despite the fame, the Joneses have stayed true to their roots.

“I went and accepted the James Beard award, but I didn’t really know what that was, and we didn’t really care honestly,” said Sam.  

The Skylight Inn is located in Ayden, while Sam Jones BBQ is based in Greenville. The Joneses plan to open a third barbecue spot in the Triangle later this year.